[tizan]

Mine switches off at exactly 23 mph (something above 35 km/h) I guess tire noise above that speed is noisy enough. I know Kia EVs along Toyota and Honda hybrids have fake noise when they are in electric mode at slow speed....though it may not be as loud in the cabin. As mentioned somewhere else in this forum this in response during public comments by NHTSA or NTSB by groups representing blind people. Chevrolet can be blamed for the implementation but the regulation is to be helpful for blind people especially at public crossing I suspect.
And good luck if you hit a pedestrian to get your insurance to cover things especially if they find out you tampered with the regulatory warning system. Insurance are notorious to weasel out of paying when finding the least fault.

 

[Chip]

...And good luck if you hit a pedestrian to get your insurance to cover things especially if they find out you tampered with the regulatory warning system...

Exactly!

 

[Mattev]

Where are all these blind pedestrians everyone is talking about? I've been driving for 30 years and have never seen one. At low speeds there is not much difference bw newer ice vehicles and evs. As far as insurance, I doubt an insurance adjuster will pull off the bottom panels to make sure the pfaf is plugged in

 

[tizan]

Where are all these blind pedestrians everyone is talking about?

Depending of where you live. Or may be you might need to get your eyesight checked

 

[Chip]

Where are all these blind pedestrians everyone is talking about? I've been driving for 30 years and have never seen one...

One thing is for sure, they haven't seen you either!

 

[BlazerButch]

Guys,

Just purchased a new Blazer EV RWD model in red tint coat (gorgeous color....looks even better in person than in photos).

Absolutely love the vehicle....this thing smokes just about any other similar priced EV on the road in terms of style, comfort and overall design.

Sexy shape on the outside and the interior is excellent....stylish....feels modern but an elegant mix of new school and old school.

Im NOT a fan of the spartan interiors you see in most EV's with the tablet glued to the center dash.

The Blazer's layout is driver focused and it just feels like your sitting in a really nice "normal" car (that just happens to be powered by electricity)....doesnt have that typical EV feel which Im not a fan of.

Anyway....my only gripe with the car was the pedestrian warning sounds it made under 25 MPH. I didnt hate them....that's too aggressive a word....but if just kind of annoyed me and I have been in plenty of electric vehicles that didnt have that or anything similar.

I read about the pull the fuse method and that's what made me realize I really preferred the silence but of course it throws a code on the screen you have to clear every time you drive and it effects the headlamp leveling as well which is on that same circuit. I was in search of a more elegant solution and my thoughts were I locate the speaker and replace it with a large resistor that matched the impedance of the speaker. This way no codes and blissful silence pulling up to drive thru windows etc.

Turns out it was even easier than I expected.....you do have to pull the plastic under belly in the front of the car (actually just mostly unscrew the passenger side right front if you have small hands) and then unplug the connector that goes to the speaker. I thought for sure a code was going to pop up in the dash with it disconnected but it did not and after my quick (silent) test drive I figured out why. When I pulled back in front of my shop I put it in reverse to straighten out the car and the "angels" started singing again....LOL (But alot less noticeable). Turns out the car has two speakers....one that goes on in the front when you have the trans in drive and the other in the rear when you have the trans in reverse.

Which honestly if I was thinking in advance about the ultimate outcome of this project and there was an easy option to leave it on in reverse only (where I feel its more warranted with limited reverse vision), I would have opted for that. Most of the annoyance for me was all in my forward motion or coming up to a drive thru window etc. I think due to the fact the rear speaker is still connected the ECM still sees a load on that line and its not throwing a code due to just having the front disconnected. To be honest Im not sure and I couldn't care less why....what Im left with is the perfect outcome. No alert noise in forward motion and a usable alert noise in reverse where you do have limited vision and it makes alot more sense to have something like that to help alert people behind you that your backing up.

I searched high and low for a solution on this forum and anything else that Google brought me to.....besides the pull the fuse deal nothing else seemed to come up.

Hope ALOT of you find this information useful (Your welcome!).

To be honest, I make my living building high performance parts for gas powered engines but I love my EV for alot of the typical running around town getting parts for my business and just all my day to day stuff. With the solar panels on my roof it just started making alot of sense for me. Now my gasoline bills will only be for driving my hot rods and the money I save with the EV can help cover all the fuel.

Its an excellent vehicle IMO....if your reading this and haven't bought one yet don't drive one unless your ready to spend the money (cause your going to like it alot!)
Hopefully most of the problems GM had with the rollout of the product is mostly sorted but Im prepared to take it to the dealer if needed.....I think GM hit a homerun with this vehicle and my sense is you will see alot of them on the road in one to two years.

I will try and update this thread with some photo's to make things even easier for you guys when I get a chance

😎👍

Mines pretty loud, even though i set the level to the lowest in settings. I wonder if a resistor couldn't be put on the speaker to reduce the volume to a more reasonable level and still meet the requirement? Anyone have any suggestions on how to do this?

 

[Not all in]

Mines pretty loud, even though i set the level to the lowest in settings. I wonder if a resistor couldn't be put on the speaker to reduce the volume to a more reasonable level and still meet the requirement? Anyone have any suggestions on how to do this?

I didn’t know there was a setting to reduce the volume. I have an RS all-wheel-drive. I just ended up putting a piece of foam over the speaker.

 

[D.Frost]

Moreover, that sound is 10% of the car production costs :

Site Maintenance

 

[FyroniK]

Guys,

Just purchased a new Blazer EV RWD model in red tint coat (gorgeous color....looks even better in person than in photos).

Absolutely love the vehicle....this thing smokes just about any other similar priced EV on the road in terms of style, comfort and overall design.

Sexy shape on the outside and the interior is excellent....stylish....feels modern but an elegant mix of new school and old school.

Im NOT a fan of the spartan interiors you see in most EV's with the tablet glued to the center dash.

The Blazer's layout is driver focused and it just feels like your sitting in a really nice "normal" car (that just happens to be powered by electricity)....doesnt have that typical EV feel which Im not a fan of.

Anyway....my only gripe with the car was the pedestrian warning sounds it made under 25 MPH. I didnt hate them....that's too aggressive a word....but if just kind of annoyed me and I have been in plenty of electric vehicles that didnt have that or anything similar.

I read about the pull the fuse method and that's what made me realize I really preferred the silence but of course it throws a code on the screen you have to clear every time you drive and it effects the headlamp leveling as well which is on that same circuit. I was in search of a more elegant solution and my thoughts were I locate the speaker and replace it with a large resistor that matched the impedance of the speaker. This way no codes and blissful silence pulling up to drive thru windows etc.

Turns out it was even easier than I expected.....you do have to pull the plastic under belly in the front of the car (actually just mostly unscrew the passenger side right front if you have small hands) and then unplug the connector that goes to the speaker. I thought for sure a code was going to pop up in the dash with it disconnected but it did not and after my quick (silent) test drive I figured out why. When I pulled back in front of my shop I put it in reverse to straighten out the car and the "angels" started singing again....LOL (But alot less noticeable). Turns out the car has two speakers....one that goes on in the front when you have the trans in drive and the other in the rear when you have the trans in reverse.

Which honestly if I was thinking in advance about the ultimate outcome of this project and there was an easy option to leave it on in reverse only (where I feel its more warranted with limited reverse vision), I would have opted for that. Most of the annoyance for me was all in my forward motion or coming up to a drive thru window etc. I think due to the fact the rear speaker is still connected the ECM still sees a load on that line and its not throwing a code due to just having the front disconnected. To be honest Im not sure and I couldn't care less why....what Im left with is the perfect outcome. No alert noise in forward motion and a usable alert noise in reverse where you do have limited vision and it makes alot more sense to have something like that to help alert people behind you that your backing up.

I searched high and low for a solution on this forum and anything else that Google brought me to.....besides the pull the fuse deal nothing else seemed to come up.

Hope ALOT of you find this information useful (Your welcome!).

To be honest, I make my living building high performance parts for gas powered engines but I love my EV for alot of the typical running around town getting parts for my business and just all my day to day stuff. With the solar panels on my roof it just started making alot of sense for me. Now my gasoline bills will only be for driving my hot rods and the money I save with the EV can help cover all the fuel.

Its an excellent vehicle IMO....if your reading this and haven't bought one yet don't drive one unless your ready to spend the money (cause your going to like it alot!)
Hopefully most of the problems GM had with the rollout of the product is mostly sorted but Im prepared to take it to the dealer if needed.....I think GM hit a homerun with this vehicle and my sense is you will see alot of them on the road in one to two years.

I will try and update this thread with some photo's to make things even easier for you guys when I get a chance

😎👍

You mentioned the small hand method... do we have to put the car up on a lift to do that? could you take a picture of what we are unscrewing with our small hands? appreciated if any reply, ty .

 

[Not all in]

You mentioned the small hand method... do we have to put the car up on a lift to do that? could you take a picture of what we are unscrewing with our small hands? appreciated if any reply, ty .

Here’s a few pics I had posted in another thread. I did not want to make the sound go away completely so I covered it with foam, but you can see the connector in one of my pictures. I think I had to take out a total of seven screws in order to pull the panel down far enough to reach it, most of the screws with the exception of maybe one or two I could reach with a standard nut driver for those screws I just used a small socket. I never had to put the car up on the ramps. Even with that three-quarter inch piece of foam it is still quite loud but at least now I can drive down the street without having my neighbors come out on their porch to see what that noise is. lol

 

[bigrone72203]

Yes! That works. Thanks again for sharing the solution.
Time to remove most of the bolts in the lower splash cover; 4 minutes.
Time to locate the speaker and connector; 1 minute
Time to unhook the connector; 15 minutes and a lot of cuss words !@#$%^

The pleasure of driving without circus music: Priceless

Wiring connectors are always a pain and every one is different.
I took a picture. The orange tab pulls out first, it is tough. I pushed with a screwdriver and it popped all the way out. THEN you can press on the white tab that is touching the orange in this picture.
Just squeeze the white tab, you can pull the connector off without damaging it like I did.
Tape it up so it will not fill with water, put a cable tie on secured it to the wiring harness so it will not rattle.
View attachment 1646

Thanks for this Oregon! Cured my only compliant with this car.

 

[dnldmrtn01]

Oregon,

Glad my thread helped you out.....and YES....that connector is a PITA to remove. I had removed the whole belly pan (which in hindsight is unnecessary) and was standing under it on my four post lift so I had an easier time accessing it and it was still a bitch to get off.

Anyway.....a couple of pics for you guys. The first is a more zoomed out location of the speaker and slightly troublesome connector.....LOL

Basically once the pink lock is slid forward you have to squeeze that connecter a good bit (at the white part that now has a gap in front of it with the pink part pulled forward) and at the same time pull to remove). If you really get frustrated just cut the wires....it won't act any different than leaving the plug disconnected but I would recommend you wrestle with the plug and keep the OEM connector in place.

If you haven't seen under your vehicle its pretty cool with the absolutely flat battery taking up most of the real estate. Seems to me GM made that battery completely serviceable and easily removable in the event it goes bad or just times out over many years. Have no clue what a replacement would cost but you don't have to dismantle the entire vehicle to replace it and that's certainly bonus!

View attachment 1647 View attachment 1648

do you not loose the horn when you do that?

 

[BennyEV]

do you not loose the horn when you do that?

No. Horn is a different device.

 

[dobdobdob]

a couple of pics for you guys. The first is a more zoomed out location of the speaker and slightly troublesome connector.....LOL

View attachment 1648

Hey @MamoMsports, I know this is an old thread, but since you're pretty much the only one (with @Not all in) who posted pics of the "surgical procedure" on how to get rid of the pedestrian alert, could you be so kind to give a better idea of where exactly I'll find the front speaker and how to access it easily. You mention the plastic under belly, is it fair to say the connector is near the right front wheel?

I've had it with the demonic choir at low speed (and no guys, I don't want to argue about the risks of shutting it up). 😈

 

[Formula695]

Hey @MamoMsports, I know this is an old thread, but since you're pretty much the only one (with @Not all in) who posted pics of the "surgical procedure" on how to get rid of the pedestrian alert, could you be so kind to give a better idea of where exactly I'll find the front speaker and how to access it easily. You mention the plastic under belly, is it fair to say the connector is near the right front wheel?

I've had it with the demonic choir at low speed (and no guys, I don't want to argue about the risks of shutting it up). 😈

It is in the right front corner of the car. Use a pick to help you remove the connector. It was a breae for me to do with a mini pick.

I just did this today and it works. However you also lose any beeping to the outside of the car. The horn still works but beeping with door locks or the rear hands free function beep don't work anymore. The functions all work just without the sound. This could be a negative or positive, probably a positive for me.

 

[mitchpark]

Guys,

Just purchased a new Blazer EV RWD model in red tint coat (gorgeous color....looks even better in person than in photos).

Absolutely love the vehicle....this thing smokes just about any other similar priced EV on the road in terms of style, comfort and overall design.

Sexy shape on the outside and the interior is excellent....stylish....feels modern but an elegant mix of new school and old school.

Im NOT a fan of the spartan interiors you see in most EV's with the tablet glued to the center dash.

The Blazer's layout is driver focused and it just feels like your sitting in a really nice "normal" car (that just happens to be powered by electricity)....doesnt have that typical EV feel which Im not a fan of.

Anyway....my only gripe with the car was the pedestrian warning sounds it made under 25 MPH. I didnt hate them....that's too aggressive a word....but if just kind of annoyed me and I have been in plenty of electric vehicles that didnt have that or anything similar.

I read about the pull the fuse method and that's what made me realize I really preferred the silence but of course it throws a code on the screen you have to clear every time you drive and it effects the headlamp leveling as well which is on that same circuit. I was in search of a more elegant solution and my thoughts were I locate the speaker and replace it with a large resistor that matched the impedance of the speaker. This way no codes and blissful silence pulling up to drive thru windows etc.

Turns out it was even easier than I expected.....you do have to pull the plastic under belly in the front of the car (actually just mostly unscrew the passenger side right front if you have small hands) and then unplug the connector that goes to the speaker. I thought for sure a code was going to pop up in the dash with it disconnected but it did not and after my quick (silent) test drive I figured out why. When I pulled back in front of my shop I put it in reverse to straighten out the car and the "angels" started singing again....LOL (But alot less noticeable). Turns out the car has two speakers....one that goes on in the front when you have the trans in drive and the other in the rear when you have the trans in reverse.

Which honestly if I was thinking in advance about the ultimate outcome of this project and there was an easy option to leave it on in reverse only (where I feel its more warranted with limited reverse vision), I would have opted for that. Most of the annoyance for me was all in my forward motion or coming up to a drive thru window etc. I think due to the fact the rear speaker is still connected the ECM still sees a load on that line and its not throwing a code due to just having the front disconnected. To be honest Im not sure and I couldn't care less why....what Im left with is the perfect outcome. No alert noise in forward motion and a usable alert noise in reverse where you do have limited vision and it makes alot more sense to have something like that to help alert people behind you that your backing up.

I searched high and low for a solution on this forum and anything else that Google brought me to.....besides the pull the fuse deal nothing else seemed to come up.

Hope ALOT of you find this information useful (Your welcome!).

To be honest, I make my living building high performance parts for gas powered engines but I love my EV for alot of the typical running around town getting parts for my business and just all my day to day stuff. With the solar panels on my roof it just started making alot of sense for me. Now my gasoline bills will only be for driving my hot rods and the money I save with the EV can help cover all the fuel.

Its an excellent vehicle IMO....if your reading this and haven't bought one yet don't drive one unless your ready to spend the money (cause your going to like it alot!)
Hopefully most of the problems GM had with the rollout of the product is mostly sorted but Im prepared to take it to the dealer if needed.....I think GM hit a homerun with this vehicle and my sense is you will see alot of them on the road in one to two years.

I will try and update this thread with some photo's to make things even easier for you guys when I get a chance

😎👍

Easy as it gets. DO NOT DISABLE YOUR PAS (pedestrian alert system)...instead simply mute it. HOW? take out the screws/bolts holding the protective plate, right front corner, Take out as few as possible (until you have enough room to see and put your hand inside) to the underside guts, bigger hands/arms will require more screws being removed. Once you can see up inside the panel you will see the speaker and it should be facing down toward the ground. Get yourself a decent sized micro fiber cloth or suitable barrier, fold it thick enough so that when you push the plate back into place, the rag will compress between the plate and the speaker. Tighten a few bolts turn on vehicle place in drive, the sound should be muted (if still too loud repeat and fold or add additional rag. Continue to try different materials until you get the desired effects. Don't disable...... mute that sucker. I have mine at a level it can still be heard outside but barely in the car. Come on MAN! Trying to get the dealer to resolve is a waste of time. The service dept. doesn't even have a meter to check the DBA output of this speaker. So how can they discern it is too high or too low? The law requires min. 56 DBA at 6' and for it to continue until veh. is over 12mph. Blazer has these POS making this noise until 25 mph. ....and refuses to fix them! I see a class action lawsuit in the making. (My opinion)! I don't want someone to get hurt due to me unplugging the speaker, I just want to be left in peace! Again our Government creates a problem for the few and to Hell with everyone else. .......and GM those knuckleheads turn that system up 3 times the minimum requirements. With the amount of blazer owners complaining they could have their IT dept create a fix and send it out over the internet to remedy this! I test drove a 2024Silverado EV. I could barely hear it inside the cab but it was okay outside. So whati s the difference? I guess Blazer owner's money is no good!

 

[AverageJoe]

Okay I have been holding my tongue on this subject, and yes I’ve unplugged my front speaker. It’s totally over the top, my 2020 Subaru is dead silent under 25 but it’s the road noise that is causing sound. It doesn’t have any noise to alert pedestrians, my 1986 Dodge truck barely makes noise at 25 but it’s the same road noise that alerts pedestrians. The front speaker is just simply annoying to me and others around me, I understand the rear speaker and alerting pedestrians that I’m reversing…. I’ve been to dealerships for tire rotation and updates and they don’t even know or care about it.

 

[7773mitchpark]

A simple tweak from GM and all EV's will get an update download automatically. Most won't even know there Ev has been updated unless GM sends an update notification to your email on file. GM is really stretching this out and making a bad sound cause them a lot of bad publicity. Unforced error on their part. My wife and I are beginning to HATE this EV but the loud intrusive noise inside the car is obnoxious and annoying. My wife said the speaker makes her speed because even in school zones she wants to get this car above the 25-mph limit. (she actually won't exceed the speed limit in school zones she has a tendency to exaggerate to make her point)

 

[2024blazy]

I just leased a 2024 LT last week and the sound is so loud I have to put it in park at the drive through. If there is a fix they are not sharing it. I figured they put a horn in the front for a reason: to warn people there is a car behind you and stop looking at your phone, pay attention, and walk. The rear sound is a good idea. Blind people can hear the tires and don't need a bazaar circus carousel sound. I plan to unplug or block it, my neighbors think I've seen one too many episodes of Star Trek and added the sound. At 6:00 AM on a quiet court they all know I am going to work.

 

[2024blazy]

Oregon,

Glad my thread helped you out.....and YES....that connector is a PITA to remove. I had removed the whole belly pan (which in hindsight is unnecessary) and was standing under it on my four post lift so I had an easier time accessing it and it was still a bitch to get off.

Anyway.....a couple of pics for you guys. The first is a more zoomed out location of the speaker and slightly troublesome connector.....LOL

Basically once the pink lock is slid forward you have to squeeze that connecter a good bit (at the white part that now has a gap in front of it with the pink part pulled forward) and at the same time pull to remove). If you really get frustrated just cut the wires....it won't act any different than leaving the plug disconnected but I would recommend you wrestle with the plug and keep the OEM connector in place.

If you haven't seen under your vehicle its pretty cool with the absolutely flat battery taking up most of the real estate. Seems to me GM made that battery completely serviceable and easily removable in the event it goes bad or just times out over many years. Have no clue what a replacement would cost but you don't have to dismantle the entire vehicle to replace it and that's certainly bonus!

View attachment 1647 View attachment 1648

Thank you very much for the photos, I plan to do something about the sound, now I know where to look.